Saturday 27th September

We booked passages to Naples at the tourist Bureau in the morning.  We then had lunch, and visited the Archaeological Museum.

At 2.30p.m. we caught a bus to Selçuk, where we saw the Saint John Basilica, the Byzantine Citadel, and aqueduct, and the Mosque of Isabey.

Then, after tea, we walked to Ephesus – about 3kms.  After looking at the baths, we did a little excavating and uncovered some pottery.  We attempted to sleep at the baths, but the mosquitos drove us back to Selçuk, after an hour or so!  We booked into a very crumby hotel there – 2.50lira for the night!

Friday 26th September

We visited the Agora in Izmir in the morning.  The remains there date from the Roman period (2^nd Century a.d.).  There are statues of Poseidon, the sea-god, and of Demeter, personifying the Earth.

The Agora, Izmir

Afterwards we visited the remains of the Citadel on Mount Pagos.

In the evening we attempted to change some French francs on the black market – without success!!

At lunch we met a kindly old American-Greek who advised us how to order a meal.  He introduced himself by saying “My name is Gabriel!”  After lunch we accompanied him for about half an hour in search of a shop selling roll-film – without success!  He was a most saintly person, who deplored the attitude of the Greeks over Cyprus, and prayed for the brotherhood of man.

Thursday 25th September

After an excellent breakfast we went up on deck to listen to one of the sailors play Turkish tunes on a strange flute-like instrument.  We landed at Izmir just after 9a.m., and we made straight for the Information Centre, from where we were directed to a student’s hostel.

We spent most of the day trying all the shipping agencies for cargo vessel passages to Italy – without success!!

We drank innumerable glasses of the rather weak Turkish tea, served without milk but plenty of sugar.  It is served in little glasses with tapered centers – in fact “thistle shaped”!  it is quite good and very cheap!

Wednesday 24th September

We visited the Aqueduct of Valens, built by Emperor Valens in 378a.d.  We also visited the Grand Bazaar, built in 1548 but destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1898.  Unfortunately after a second fire in November 1954 only about a third remains.

Istanbul

After lunch we boarded the ship Akdeniz, anchored near the Galata Bridge for Izmir.

We had an omelet together with vermouth in the evening; the omelet being a large one served on one plate but with two forks (one each).

We met a couple of Turks at the bar as we were eating our meal, and exchanged drinks with them.

Tuesday 23rd September

In the morning we caught the ferry from Galata Bridge to Kadiköy, across the Bosphorus; and at approximately 10a.m. we set foot in Asia!!

We spent some time trying to find the British War Cemetery there, and ended up in a military camp!  The duty officer was kind enough to loan us a corporal to take us there.  Unfortunately my grandfather’s grave was not amongst the hundred or so there!

We then returned via the ferry to the Galata Bridge.  In the afternoon we walked to Dolmabahçe Palace – built in 1857 during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid  - built right up to the edge of the Bosphorus.  It was here that Atatürk died.

Domabache Palace, Istanbul

Monday 22nd September

We visited the British Consulate, the Information Centre, the Bank, and the Maritime Office in the morning.  After lunch we booked passage to Izmir for Wednesday.

We bumped into another English chap today, on a hitch-hiking holiday.  In the evening we met a very friendly Turkish student in the hotel, who told us about all the things to see in Turkey.

Sunday 21st September

We arose at 8 o’clock and walked over the Galata bridge and visited the information centre (closed), having breakfast on the way.  We then returned to the Old City, passing Galata Tower enroute, and bumped into the chap from Bournemouth and girl rom Australia again!

We then visited the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet being having quite a good lunch.  Then we visited St. Sophia, the Seraglio Palace, the Mosque (Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent), Suleymaniye, and various lesser mosques. The old city is almost entirely enclosed by the original Byzantine walls.  In St. Sophia we saw the spot where the Byzantine kings were crowned.

St. Sophia, Istanbul

The Blue Mosque, Istanbul

In the evening we met a very pleasant Turk at diner, who treated us to drinks and cigarettes.  He also insisted that we exchange addresses.