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Thursday 11th September

I awoke with a hangover, and was shortly afterwards sick.

We said goodbye to our farmer friends, and thanked them for their generosity – in fact we felt a little embarrassed at not having spent a penny – although they had repeatedly refused our offers of payment.  We then managed to get a lift in a land-rover *, followed by an unexpected lift in a coach taking a party of farmers touring!

The coach took us to Nis, where after a short sightseeing trip we travelled south in a lorry – which unexpectedly broke down after a few kilometres.  It was pouring with rain – but we managed to get another lift in a lorry to Leskovac, in which I travelled sitting on top of a block of ice!  Being so wet and cold we decided not to attempt camping, but to book into the hotel there, which we promptly did!

* Walking for a while after the land-rover trip we met an old Serbian who spoke quite good French, and then a Serbian couple who insisted on giving us a couple of bunches of grapes.  Everyone is most kind, but curious!

We shared a room with a young German from Stuttgart. Needless to say, above the reception desk was a huge photograph of Marshall Tito.

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